Despite its long-standing association with cannabis and its past popularity as a stop on the hippie trail in the mid-20th century, Afghanistan has remained a relatively unexplored destination since the Soviet invasion in the late 1970s. Due to ongoing political turmoil and decades of war and instability, Afghanistan has become increasingly inaccessible. However, after careful planning, I found myself in the passenger seat of a Toyota Corolla in October 2019, driving through the desert plains and down the Himalayan foothills towards Mazar-i-Sharif, known for its famous Afghan hashish.
As I arrived in Mazar-i-Sharif on a sunny afternoon, I couldn’t help but feel like I was in a dream. I visited the renowned Blue Mosque and explored the bustling bazaar, filled with delicious street food and the occasional whiff of hashish. After exchanging currency, purchasing a SIM card, and settling into my hotel room with a view, I was eager to experience the legendary hashish scene. However, the hotel manager warned me not to venture too far as the sun began to set. The once vibrant streets had transformed into dark alleys, lit only by fruit stands and the shouts of vendors trying to sell their goods before nightfall.
I had come to Mazar-i-Sharif for a two-month stay to work on a book about contemporary Afghan cannabis culture. During my first night and the days that followed, I couldn’t ignore the palpable tension in the country and the heartbreaking poverty that over half of its residents live in. But as I photographed the local hashish scene, I also witnessed the resilience of tradition in the face of adversity.
One of the first things I noticed upon arriving in Mazar-i-Sharif was the presence of cannabis plants in people’s yards and homes in the city center. As I ventured further out, I saw more and more plants on the edges of cotton fields. Despite being illegal, some farmers still grow cannabis, but they have to be cautious due to increased government pressure to enforce the law. Many choose to harvest their plants earlier and grow them in inner courtyards to avoid detection.
While some farmers had already harvested their crops by the time I arrived in October, I saw a few fields still standing in early December before I left. Each field displayed a stunning array of shapes, colors, and scents. Afghans have been selectively breeding cannabis plants for centuries, choosing those that produce high amounts of resin and using the seeds from their pollinated plants. This traditional method results in a diverse range of genetics within a single field and from one valley to another. Additionally, each farmer has their own unique techniques for growing, sieving, and curing the plants, resulting in a variety of hashish flavors and textures.
As I observed the process of making hashish, I was struck by the level of skill and expertise involved. The resin is collected by sieving the dried plants and then pressed into a refined hashish. The end result is a product that reflects the genetic diversity and traditional techniques of the Afghan cannabis culture.
In conclusion, my time in Mazar-i-Sharif allowed me to witness the enduring presence of cannabis in Afghan culture, despite the challenges and obstacles faced by its people. The diversity and resilience of this ancient plant and its traditional cultivation methods continue to thrive in the face of adversity.
